Introduction to Wartime Christmas
When Americans sat down for Christmas dinner in 1918, the meal wasn’t just a celebration — it was an act of patriotism. During World War I, the U.S. Food Administration urged households to cut back on wheat, sugar, meat, and fats so more food could be shipped to troops overseas. This led to the creation of a cookbook called "Win the War in the Kitchen" that was filled with ration-friendly recipes.
The Cookbook and Its Purpose
The National WWI Museum and Memorial in Kansas City preserves this cookbook through its online exhibit, “War Fare: From the Home Front to the Front.” The cookbook emphasizes the importance of conservation, stating, “Everyone has to help if we want to win.” It highlights the value of fats, which were needed for feeding soldiers and producing glycerin for explosives, and encourages saving sugar, noting that “Saving that ounce a day is part of YOUR WAR SERVICE.”
Contributions and Support
The cookbook received contributions from various sources, including food companies, American Red Cross nutritionists, women’s charities, and magazines of the time, with support from notable personalities. This collective effort was driven by patriotism, as Lora Vogt, the museum’s vice president of education and interpretation, explains. The approach was not about government dictates but about giving American families the opportunity to support the nation by changing their eating habits.
Christmas Dishes of 1918
While wartime substitutes like carrot coffee, soybean bread, and the call to make every day a fish day filled everyday meals, Christmas still called for dishes that felt special. Here are seven dishes that would have been on some American Christmas tables in 1918:
1. Relish Tray
The centerpiece of a holiday table was the relish tray, full of cucumbers, celery, carrots, olives, nuts, and fruit. This was an inexpensive option based on preserved foods that required no wheat, meat, or sugar, essentially the charcuterie tray of its time.
2. Maple Syrup Cake with Maple Glaze
Given the emphasis on reducing sugar consumption, home cooks were encouraged to sweeten cakes with maple syrup, honey, or molasses. A maple syrup cake with maple glaze was a celebratory solution for special occasions like Christmas.
3. Corn Fritters
Corn fritters were a simple, wheat-saving side dish that appeared in the World War I cookbook. The recipe is still viable today, offering a quick and easy meal option.
4. Buckwheat Chocolate Cake
Buckwheat, rye, cornmeal, and oatmeal were alternatives to flour, and the World War I cookbook urged families to rethink their baking. The buckwheat chocolate cake was a treat that aligned with the conservation message and remains a solid option.
5. Puritan Turkey Stuffing
The Puritan stuffing did not require real turkey meat, just turkey fat. Made from cornmeal, oats, stale bread, chopped nuts, and turkey fat, this filling was designed to be economical and celebratory.
6. Meat: Possum, Tongue, and Mallard
During World War I, meats like possum, tongue, and wild duck were more practical, local, and celebratory. The cookbook included a variety of meats, reflecting the "beautiful intersection of the fantastical tapestry of America" and the reliance on regional and cultural traditions.
7. Plum Pudding
Plum pudding remained one of the most popular Christmas desserts of the era, with households relying heavily on dried fruits like prunes, raisins, and dates. This dessert was a way to enjoy the spirit of the season while adhering to the conservation guidelines.
Conclusion
The Christmas dishes of 1918 offer a glimpse into a traditional holiday menu with elements that still feel familiar today. The emphasis was not just on the food but on the memories made and the people brought to the table. As American soldiers overseas ate whatever was available, the home front’s efforts to conserve and celebrate with alternative dishes played a significant role in supporting the war effort.
