Copenhagen Fashion Week

Borrelli-Persson is looking forward to the return of the Danish Mens fashion label Sunflower this season. The brand was last seen for SS24. In the meantime, the LVMH price semi-finalist Mfpen will organize a dinner on Thursday evening with the US podcast ‘Throwing Fits’, who have been long-standing fans of the brand and have contributed to strengthening its business in the USA.

Community and Events

CPHFW has a nice mix of runway shows, presentations, business events, dinner and social gatherings that really create a feeling of community among all international participants, as well as the designers, and exhibit talent, inspire convincing conversations and new introductions that are all used to enrich experience.

Fresh Names and Energy

Some may not look positively on brands that leave the calendar. But CPHFW follows a different approach to promoting its talents, even after a break. The Danish brand Anne Sofie Madsen welcomes the new talent program this season together with existing Labels Bonnetje and Berner Kühl. This is a second coming for the Danish designer, who originally launched her brand in 2013 before closing it in 2017 and turning to other art forms such as illustration and film.

New and Experienced Designers

“I am really interested in how we talk about novelty in fashion. There are new, new, as in the up-and-coming talent; and then there are new, as in an experienced designer who is working on something new,” says Borrelli-Persson. “Anne Sofie Madsen is an example of an experienced designer who is working on something new. The jewel of a presentation last season did not attract as much attention as I imagined. The designer is part of the new talent program this year, which should correct that.”

Return of Established Brands

Similarly, the Womenswear design trio returns to the Danish capital after a six-year break, partly for health reasons, with a runway show on Tuesday. And the former new talent designer, Dark, subversive label Pln, celebrates after two years of strengthening his business.

Growth and Ambitions

“I always look at the new names [in Copenhagen] and in particular the brands that we already follow that change to full Runway shows,” says Printemps Womenswear buyer Mathilde Vanini. “This shift usually says a lot about their growth and ambitions. Sometimes it is the more reserved shows that leave the strongest impression.” Of course, runway shows are not everything. Zero-waste knit-labels and labels that are equipped on order are also worth noting.