Introduction to Balloon Trousers
There is hardly a trouser trend that divides opinions as much as balloon trousers. The wide, voluminous and deliberately impractical trousers were last in vogue in the late eighties and nineties and are perhaps better known as “hammer trousers”. They have come back into fashion. The style has flooded fashion week runways and been the defining silhouette in the spring/summer collections of Chloé, Armani, Alaïa and others.
The Key to Styling Balloon Pants
But even though designers have embraced exaggerated proportions, many buyers remain hesitant — unsure whether balloon pants are chic or just a step away from clown costume. According to stylists, the difference lies entirely in the details. Here’s how to find the right balance when styling balloon pants this season.
It Starts with the Fit
The biggest mistake people make with balloon pants is assuming that the large amount of fabric can hide the figure and therefore choosing the perfect size is not crucial. But in reality the silhouette requires precision. “The first rule [is] Make sure the fit is right,” says stylist Deborah Sheridan Taylor. "Length is key, the hem should reach to the ankle or just above. Consider styles with a proper ankle cuff instead of an elastic ruched hem, which can take the look dangerously close to Aladdin territory."
Selecting the Right Top
Since balloon pants overemphasize the lower half of the body, the upper body needs to be held back. “Balloon pants are more difficult to style than wide-leg or straight-leg pants because of their unusual proportions,” says Sheridan-Taylor. "To balance the exaggerated balloon silhouette, layering close-to-the-body knits like a cashmere tank or fitted tops with a cropped blazer will help contrast the flowy style." For a more relaxed approach, she suggests leaning into shape rather than stiffness. "For a simpler, casual approach, tuck a shirt into the waistband, but be sure to undo a few extra buttons to elongate your torso and create a flattering inverted V shape."
Shoes Should Anchor, Not Compete
Shoes can either turn balloon pants on their head or completely mess up the proportions. "In winter, structured shoes work best with balloon pants. Chunky loafers, leather ankle boots with a solid sole […] or even a narrow Chelsea boot all work great.” Contrary to popular belief, stylist Oriona Robb warns to “generally avoid very delicate footwear such as thin ballet flats or stilettos, as they can make the proportions look inappropriate and slightly outdated.” However, pointed shoes can perfectly complement the relaxed silhouette. “The visual line of a pointed heel immediately appears sharper […] Ankle boots are also a good choice because they hit the boot in exactly the right place.”
Don’t Forget the Fabric and Workmanship
Not all balloon pants behave the same – and the choice of fabric determines whether the shape appears cool and architectural or chaotic and unruly. “Satin and silky fabrics – and even velvet – add a lustrous finish to eveningwear,” says Sheridan-Taylor, “paired with a silky peplum top and heels for elegant fluidity through the relaxed silhouette.” Whether during the day or in winter, the structure is important. "More structured fabrics make the balloon shape more pronounced, such as cotton twill or gabardine, and can be a more wearable option." Robb says the fabric depends a lot on the weather. "Fabric choice makes all the difference. In the British climate, I love wool blends, brushed cotton twills, heavy poplins and soft, structured tailoring fabrics." She warns against anything that is too light, especially outside of the summer season. "Avoid anything that’s too thin, as it can look sloppy very quickly."
