The Evolution of Beauty Standards
In the 1960s, thinness was a new ideal of beauty; cultural changes meant that fashion was increasingly aimed at teenagers rather than older women. A slender, almost childlike body symbolized the new obsession with youth. This trend continued into the 1990s, with young, beautiful girls dominating the catwalks and billboards, embodying the ultimate cool – independent, rebellious, and effortlessly glamorous.
The Rise of Body Positivity
As the decade progressed, more and more curvy models appeared, challenging conventional beauty standards. The body positivity movement exploded in the 2010s, amplified by social media, and emphasized intersectionality with curvy, queer, and disabled bodies at the forefront. However, despite this progress, the fashion industry seems to be reverting to its old ways, with a decline in plus-size and curvy representation on major catwalks.
The Inside Story
To understand this shift, we spoke with award-winning director Julia Parnell and curve models Isabella Moore and Hannah Janes. Parnell explains that the idea for her documentary arose from the retreat from body diversity in the fashion industry. Moore, a celebrated curvy model, notes that she entered the industry when inclusivity was at its peak but has since noticed a shift back towards smaller sizes. Janes, a British curvy model, has been in the industry for 20 years and has seen firsthand the decline in curve modeling jobs.
The Impact on Models
Moore and Janes share their personal experiences with the industry’s shift towards thinner models. Moore expresses her disappointment and anger at the lack of demand for models over a certain size, while Janes describes the trauma of trying to maintain a smaller size and the impact it had on her mental health. Janes eventually transitioned to curvy modeling, which has changed her life for the better.
The Cultural Significance
The documentary series examines the emotional and professional costs of plus-size women’s visibility in the fashion industry and provides an insider’s look at the global conversation about body diversity. It features voices such as Felicity Hayward and Alex Light, who challenge global beauty standards, and British fashion leaders like Jamie Gill and Daniel Peters. The series also explores the importance of cultural heritage in the fashion industry, with Moore discussing the lack of recognition for her Samoan heritage.
The Deeper Question
As the rise of Ozempic brings slimness back, we must address the deeper question of why this beauty ideal is so desirable. Many scholars, activists, and cultural critics argue that racism is anchored in the history of the "thin ideal" and the fashion industry’s preference for less curvy bodies. The current moment with GLP-1s and a resurgence of "thinness" taps into these deeper stories, highlighting the need for a more inclusive fashion world.
Conclusion
The documentary series raises crucial questions about the fashion industry’s pushback on body diversity and the disappearance of curvy models from the runway, advertising, and storerooms. It encourages us to celebrate our individuality and take back our power, challenging the rules we live by not just as women, but as people. By sharing their stories and opinions, we can work towards creating a more inclusive fashion world.
