The Legacy of Valentino Garavani

The great and good of fashion and film gathered in Rome for the funeral of Italian fashion designer Valentino Garavani, who died on Monday at the age of 93. Guests dressed to ensure the designer was sent off in an appropriate atmosphere of impeccable elegance for which he was famous.

A Half-Century Career in Fashion

After a half-century career in fashion, Valentino became something of a nickname for “Emperor”. American director Matt Tyrnauer of the 2008 documentary, Valentino: the last emperor explained: "He lives as lavishly as his clients and sets the standard for the industry. He excludes everything that is not beautiful." In addition to a 152-foot superyacht and a private jet, Valentino had a portfolio of properties in London, New York, Rome, Tuscany, Gstaad, and France.

Timeless Elegance

Valentino’s clothing reflects the idea of impeccable presentation. Using fashion to be camera-ready, in Valentino’s eyes, meant avoiding fashion trends, prints, and aesthetic excitement. Instead, they relied on timeless elegance, color blocking, and, of course, Valentino red, a mix of carmine and poppy red. “I know what women want,” Valentino once said. “They want to be beautiful.”

Influence on Fashion

Valentino’s designs have been loved by a range of celebrities over the decades, including Elizabeth Taylor, Jackie O, Princess Diana, Gwyneth Paltrow, and Nicola Peltz. His enduring influence on fashion can be attributed to his passion for beauty. As Alistair O’Neill, fashion professor at Central Saint Martins, explains: "He met his life and business partner, Mr. Giametti, in 1960 in front of a café on Via Veneto in Rome, where Federico Fellini was creating The Dolce Vita. This was the origin of the paparazzi, the idea that your every move is always visible."

Early Life and Career

Born in Lombardy in 1932 to a middle-class family, Valentino’s father was a businessman who sold electrical goods, while his mother was cultured and helpful. Valentino was interested in clothing from a young age: “Even as a little boy, my passion was design,” he once said; While still in elementary school, he helped his Aunt Rosa and another local seamstress with their creations. At the age of 18, he trained in haute couture at the Paris École des Beaux-Arts and the Chambre Syndicale.

Enduring Legacy

When Valentino retired in 2008, his design protégés Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo Piccioli, both Italians, were appointed co-creative directors of the label. This very Italian idea of family is strong at Valentino. The seamstresses who have worked at Valentino throughout their careers contribute to the clear brand vision we see on the red carpet today and Valentino’s enduring fashion legacy. In 2010, Valentino told a fashion journalist: "I hope people will say: ‘Mr Valentino, he’s done something for fashion, hasn’t he?’" Yes, Mr Valentino, we can probably say that.