Introduction to Neutrals
Neutral colors may go under the radar in trend overviews, but they’re far from insignificant when it comes to wardrobe workhorses. As designer and podcaster Amanda Wakeley OBE puts it: “Neutrals are the unsung heroes of any wardrobe.” She believes that “finding the right colors for your skin tone is just as important as finding the most flattering colors.” When chosen correctly, “they become the foundation of your style—pieces you reach for again and again because they make you feel confident and relaxed.”
Undertones and the “Glow Test”
Figuring out whether your skin suits warm or cool neutrals can feel like an impossible test until you realize that it’s often more instinctive than scientific. Logic can only get you so far. Remove all makeup and use natural daylight. Hold the garment directly under your chin – if it makes your skin look radiant and healthy, it’s in your range; it’s not too tired or dull. You’re looking for that instant, glowing pick-me-up moment where your face comes to life rather than disappearing.
Factors Influencing Neutral Choices
Your hair color will also be a factor, especially if you color your hair. If you sunburn easily, you’re more likely to have a cooler undertone, and if you tan easily, you’re more likely to have a warmer undertone. Even eye color can play a role—blue or green eyes are often associated with cooler undertones, while brown and hazel can be associated with warmer undertones. If you tend to glow in gold, warmer tones like camel and ivory are probably your thing. If silver flatters you more, cool neutrals like dove gray, charcoal, or crisp white are often your allies.
Matching Tone to Complexion
Once you know your undertone or season, the next tricky task is knowing exactly which neutrals to choose. On fair skin, soft grays, taupes, and blush neutrals feel wonderfully sophisticated. Olive complexions come to life in creamy ivory, warm caramel, and khaki, while deeper complexions look exceptional in rich espresso, sand, or bright white. White is actually the trickiest neutral of all. Optical white is a light, pure white with a slightly bluish hue that makes it appear even lighter on the skin, while a true off-white is a yellowish or warmer hue, like ivory.
The Challenge of Beige
Although all shades of beige, brown, and taupe can be blue, they are certainly not all the same. The wrong beige can make you look uncomfortable and take heat away from your face. Texture can be transformative. If beige feels too flat, try warmer oatmeal or soft biscuit tones instead. The same goes for gray: if grays are exhausting you, opt for a smoky mushroom shade or a soft stone tone—something with a touch of warmth.
Unsung Neutrals
If you’re not one for the classic neutrals of brown, gray, and white, there are some shades that are unsung neutrals. Khaki is a wonderful neutral alternative, and navy is the unsung hero of the neutral family. Maroon and clay are also wonderful neutrals – adaptable to whatever you pair them with.
The New Neutrals
You might think of neutrals as timeless hues that come back year after year, but similar to khaki, navy, and maroon, there are some shades that are becoming trendy neutrals. If you’ve been keeping an eye on the runways – or even the high streets – lately, you’ll have noticed that brown is the new black. Chocolate brown is undoubtedly a new neutral, surprisingly flattering on a variety of skin tones. It pairs beautifully with soft blush and light blue tones, as well as bolder pops of color like lipstick red and moss green.
Updating Your Neutrals
If you still want to stick with your tried-and-true beige, gray, and white tones but want to update them, a neutral is just a neutral until it becomes a pure neutral. Transparency transforms classics into something modern. A sheer beige skirt worn with an oversized gray cashmere knit is a modern take on neutrals. Even pairing sheer knits over plain vests is back in style, reminiscent of the grunge-inspired, semi-sheer trends of the ’90s.
