Group chat: What does the appointment of Grace Wales Bonner mean for Hermès?

Introduction to a New Era

The news is out: a new creative director of men’s fashion has been named. At a time when every appointment is scrutinized for what it means to the market, the brand and the culture, a bold step has been taken by shifting creative leadership for the menswear division for the first time in almost four decades, becoming the first major European fashion house to appoint a black woman to the position.

The Appointment

The new creative director, who built her eponymous label around cultural storytelling and meticulous tailoring, will debut her first collection in January 2027. The industry is already weighing what that means: a generational shift and a possible recalibration of brand codes.

Industry Insights

Our team thought about it and decided to bring you our conversations. How great is the news of the appointment? It’s so nice to have an appointment that everyone seems to support. And it doesn’t have to be released until January 2027? She will need the time to really penetrate the archives. It’s also great to see another luxury brand get off the rat race and give their creatives time… Is this true luxury?

A New Perspective

This reminds me of how another luxury brand gave artistic director time: nine months after announcing his appointment, he presented his debut show. And it paid off. The brand will skip the upcoming men’s week and the studio-designed collection will likely be presented as a presentation or lookbook. The brand doesn’t give in to haste or trends.

The Brand’s Approach

What does it mean for the brand to have a more vibrant name at the helm? There is no single creative director. The general artistic director, along with other responsible individuals, work together. The house is the star. It’s about juggling very specific codes that have been established over decades and maintaining consistency with the highest quality standards.

A New Look at Menswear

The appointment represents a completely new look at menswear. While the brand was of course a respected house before, its ready-to-wear products were never the focus. Currently, ready-to-wear, including fashion and shoes, accounts for just 29 percent of the brand’s sales. The new director’s strength as a designer lies in ready-to-wear and shoes, making her the perfect choice for this area.

Cultural Significance

The appointment is also worth noting because it’s rare for a woman, let alone a woman of color, to take the reins of a traditional house as established and prestigious as the brand. The way the brand explores ideas of cultural hybridity and modern black masculinity, and has also gained great credibility in the art world, makes the appointment feel culturally appealing. The brand’s fans and customers will be excited to see what the new director does, even if they can’t afford it.