A New Era for Chanel
The recent collection has marked a significant shift in the brand’s approach to fashion. According to Tim Lim, group fashion director, Meta Media Holdings, "It’s not just a new era – it is a paradigm shift. We have to rethink everything we have taken for granted in Chanel." This change is evident in the way the brand’s women are portrayed, with expansive inner worlds and a sense of magical chaos.
Redefining Chanel’s Style
The collection features a range of unique and distorted designs, including chopped-off jackets, crooked skirts, and frayed tweed hems. These elements come together to create a cool and modern look that is just the beginning of a new era for the brand. As Tim Lim notes, "a jacket that is chopped off in the waist, a skirt crooked, a franted tweed hem, the scarecrow dress, these desperate, distorted pockets … so cool and it is just the beginning."
Emphasis on Materiality
Emilie Hammen, director at Palais Galliera, Parisian Museum, highlights the importance of materiality in the collection. "Gabrielle Chanel had an original understanding of materials knitting paths for daywear, all-over sequins instead of decorative drugs in evening clothes." The brand’s approach to design emphasizes the relationship between the body and the dress, with a focus on modernist principles.
Exceptional Craftsmanship
The collection has been praised for its exceptional craftsmanship, with a focus on lightness, modernity, and sustainability. Stefano Tonchi, editorial director of Harper’s Bazaar Italia, notes that "the lightness of the clothing was obvious and the modernity of the proportions was daring and yet sustainable." The designer’s approach is characterized by a love of experimentation with fabric, embroidery, and technology, rather than a focus on trends.
A Classical Modernist Approach
The collection’s design approach has been described as classical modernism, with a focus on clean lines, simple proportions, and a lack of irony or cynicism. As Stefano Tonchi notes, "no creative director in the 2000 -thoughts: no tricks, no messages, no casting or set twist, no films and celebrities. Do I dare say classical modernism? And no irony, no cynicism, a lot of love for the art of fashion." This approach marks a significant shift in the brand’s direction, one that is characterized by a deep love of the art of fashion.
