Introduction to Tory Burch

Tory Burch, a renowned fashion designer, met with a model in a conference room, where the model wore a sporty, box-shaped outfit with a satin jacket and leather cord threaded around the collar and hood. Burch was accompanied by Pookie Burch, Associate Creative Director and her stepdaughter, and Brian Molloy, a stylist who has worked with Burch since 2020.

Design Discussion

The satin jacket was deemed "a bit too mothers’ evening" by Pookie, with a border that was too heavy, resembling brocade. However, the unusual lacing saved the design. Burch seemed unimpressed, and the model was asked to change. An assistant then pulled out a dinner jacket from the 19th century from the archives, which the team studied, noting its strange relevance in terms of details.

Creative Process

In a typical Tory Burch meeting, there is a lot of playful plumbing of the past, with challenges issued to those present and an expectation that they will also challenge others. The model returned wearing pants gathered with a clip at the sacrum, prompting Burch to comment, "You look a bit like Oliver Twist." The model smiled, and the team continued their discussion.

Personal History

Burch met with the author in her office, located in the same building as her on-site studio, market exhibition room, and other expansive rooms. She shared her origin story, starting with her childhood. Her father never had a "real job," and her mother, Reva, was a completed host who became a kind of Proto-Martha Stewart. The family lived in a two-century-old house in Valley Forge, Pennsylvania, with 15 bedrooms, filled with finds from flea markets and auctions.

Early Life and Education

Burch attended a local Quaker school, where she was a bit of a tomboy, before being sent to the all-girls prep school Agnes Irwin. She then attended the University of Pennsylvania, studying art history, and spent a semester abroad, which she credits with instilling in her a sense of philanthropic purpose. Her work ethic comes from her mother, who she describes as the busiest person she has ever met, with more energy than she has.

Career

Burch’s first job after college was for a Yugoslav designer named Zoran, whose elegant, minimalist clothing her mother wore. She worked closely with Zoran, his partner, and the nutritionist in the back, starting her day with vodka at 10 a.m. She was often tasked with politely turning away undesirable visitors when her boss was hiding in the back. At Harper’s Bazaar, where she worked next, she learned how a shoot worked and was addressed formally by her bosses, including Geoffrey Beene.