Introduction to Dover Street Market’s New Collection

The top floor showroom of Dover Street Market’s (DSM) new Paris outpost was buzzing with activity on Sunday morning as buyers browsed through the retailer’s list of stamps, including Erl, Rassvet, and Phileo. Alongside these established labels, a completely new brand made its debut, bearing the name "DSM" on its door.

The Birth of a New Label

For the first time since its founding in 2004, Dover Street Market has launched its own in-house fashion collection. Dubbed the "DSM mark," this new label was designed by Kei Ninomiya, the innovative mind behind the noir label, which has been part of the Comme des Garçons/Dover Street Market diaspora for over a decade.

Kei Ninomiya’s Vision

Ninomiya, sporting his signature mohawk, was on hand to discuss the debut collection. He explained that his goal was to create something entirely new, distinct from his Noir label. "It’s completely different than Noir," he said. "It’s an original brand from Dover Street Market. So, I wanted to think about its philosophy, identity, and DNA." Ninomiya drew inspiration from the diverse community that DSM has cultivated, comprising various brands, nationalities, and styles from around the world.

The Collection

The resulting collection is a thoughtful reflection of DSM’s eclectic spirit. Poly jersey jackets in chestnut brown and black, cut like oversized collarless school blazers, feature the outline of a coat of arms. Some variants include a built-in hood and the actual coat of arms, complete with a mantle escutcheon. The elephant motif, which appears on various items, including welding route pants, T-shirts, socks, and stadium jackets, is a nod to the central theme of the collection.

Expanding the DSM Universe

The collection will not only be sold through DSM’s global portfolio but also in cities where the retailer does not yet have a presence. The look book, which features a diverse cast of models, including DSM retail staff and friends, showcases the brand’s commitment to community and inclusivity. With this new collection, Dover Street Market is poised to expand its influence, inviting a broader audience to join its unique universe of style and fashion.