Introduction to Sustainable Art
It was a collaboration that was not expected, but both needed. When the architect Kanhai Gandhi met Hedwig Bouley, the German founder of the fashion brand LPJ Studios, in Mumbai in 2018, the duo could hardly have known that its sustainable artistic project would take years. The duo works from their respective studios in Bavaria and Mumbai under the name Bouley Gandhi and creates large-scale works of art from upcycled fabrics.
The Problem of Textile Waste
According to the Global Fashion Agenda, a non-profit organization based in Copenhagen, which supports the transition to a more sustainable future, around 92 million tons of annual textile waste are produced. This corresponds to a garbage truck full of clothing that is disposed of every second. "I’ve been a fashion designer for 40 years," Bouley said. "About eight years ago, I decided to do something with all the remains and waste of the fashion industry."
The Artistic Process
"We know that the fashion industry is one of the largest polluters in the world, so we thought we can get out of our way. Art is a good way to create awareness. We do not use new materials in our works," said Gandhi. Their large-scale wall hangings use a unique needle-punch technique to sew used wool and cashmere. Gandhi uses his architectural background to create a design while Bouley sews a small model by hand. After all, they produce the large-scale pieces with a rare technology, in which materials are involved with the help of small needles.
Upcycling in the Fashion Industry
Upcycling, the process of converting waste materials into new products with a higher value, is becoming more and more common in the fashion industry, as concern for the environment is growing. In Europe, for example, fashion designer Marine Serre has gained traction for their use of waste materials. In India, too, upcycling has been accepted by both established and upcoming designers and craftsmen in recent years. Doodlage, a studio in New Delhi, makes clothing, for example, made of fabric and second-hand clothing.
Collaboration and Cultural Exchange
In April, Bouley Gandhi showed her latest collection in the Milan Design Week in Rossana Orlandi Art Space. The duo met in 2018 on the Design Trade Show Maison & Object in Paris. Gandhi was hit by the pieces on the Bouley Booth and asked if he could visit her studio in the small town of Aschau in the Chiemgau in Bavaria. Their collaboration was a successful experiment in bridging frequently wide cultural differences between Germany and India, which led to new, positive experiences for both – including style renovation.
The Human Element
Apart from the environmental aspect, Bouley Gandhi wants her work to spread a message of common human experiences. In a time of division, as conflicts anger and right-wing extremism are on the rise, the duo believe that art can help combine humanity by reminding us of our similarities. A Bouley Gandhi piece shows a face with lips and mouth that rises from the surface of a water body and was converted during the pandemic. Gandhi wanted the work to represent the human element of resilience and represent it "Hope Depth" with the title "Hope". "A large part of the human mind is that if there is a strong will, they tend to survive," said Gandhi. "This characteristic of the human psyche is universal. It is not limited to a German or an Indian or an American – it’s all about everyone."
