Introduction to Savile Row
Savile Row has long been famous for its sharp sartorial tailoring and has pulled in customers ranging from Laurence Olivier to King Charles III. The short street, located in Mayfair in London, has been referred to as the "Golden Mile of Tailoring" since Henry Poole opened his tailor shop at No. 32 Savile Row in 1846.
History of Savile Row
Even the term "tailor-made" is said to have emerged from the street, when a garment for a suit from individual customers was to be "spoken for." Savile Row really found its footing in the early 19th century, but around the mid-19th century, it was the place for men’s tailoring. It started with military uniforms and developed into the ultimate destination for sharp gentlemen who wanted something special. From royalty to rock stars, it had a long list of loyal, stylish supporters.
Evolution of Men’s Clothing
The roots of Savile Row in military dress made way for a new elegance in men’s clothing. Tailors began to dress the row of social, political, and creative power. Regardless of whether it was a finely tailored dressing gown or an elegantly cut coat, Savile Row was the go-to destination for impeccable style. At the turn of the 20th century, there was a departure from classic men’s suits that required several pieces and components. Men began to move away from very stiff, formal styles and wanted something more relaxed, although still incredibly elegant.
Influence on Global Ideas of Masculinity
This mixture of structure and softness would become a trademark of British tailoring, with Savile Row at its epicenter. But its influence beamed far beyond the UK and shaped global ideas of masculinity. When entering the 1970s, Savile Row was transformed again, with experimental styles and sequins being requested by newly shaped rock bands. Tailors Tommy Nutter and Edward Sexton brought style, swagger, and an urgently needed injection of personality to Savile Row.
Diversification and Inclusion
The rebellious glamour of Nutter’s shop converted the perception of Savile Row from a bastion of old-school formality to a stage for the bravest fashion. But as it had been known as an Old Boys’ Club for a long time, some were deterred by the old institutional atmosphere of the street. That was until female tailors came onto the street. Female tailors like Alexandra Wood, known as "the female tailor of Savile Row," took a look back on the legendary street, from its usurping in the 19th century to its diversification in sexless tailoring.
Preservation of Legacy
When designing for her customers, Wood says it is only about being assertive. Many of the men she works with are at the top of their game and want to be managed, they want someone to say, "This is the right cut for you. These are your best colors. Here’s how you can put everything together." And they want it to feel effortless. Wood and like-minded Savile Row tailors endeavor to maintain its legacy, and so the Westminster Council presented the Westminster Special Policy Area in 2016 to protect Savile Row’s legacy.
Conclusion
To be honest, Wood thinks it was a great movement. Savile Row is iconic, and without any kind of protection, it could have easily lost its identity. Tailoring makes the street so special, and this guideline helps to keep this at its core. It is about protecting the craft and ensuring that it is not swallowed by fast fashion or chain shops. If done well, this means that future generations can still experience what the street is really unique for. Tailor-made suits are still in fashion, just as they were a hundred years ago, and Savile Row remains an integral facet of the historic streets of London.
